The Modern Tailors Revitalising Savile Row

Announced on the Autumn/Winter 2024 catwalks, suits are making a celebrated comeback in our wardrobes. The global tailoring market is thriving, with an estimated value of $42.3 billion in 2023 and projected to reach $60.9 billion by 2032 at an annual growth rate of 4.1 per cent. Previously reserved to men at the highest levels of society, tailoring is being democratised and women are now also incorporating tailored pieces into their lives, not only for the office but for nights out and daily wear, drawn by the feeling of elegance and empowerment that a suit provides. After years of remote work attire, people are enjoying dressing up again but with effortless ease as has shown this year’s ‘corpcore’ trend – a grungier and more streamlined approach to classic officewear, influenced by the 90s and better suited to a multi-faceted lifestyle.

Savile Row, known as the birthplace of bespoke tailoring, is also seeing a revival as both legacy houses and new names invigorate the historic craft. Nestled in London’s Mayfair, the ‘Row’ has served as a discreet hub for custom tailoring since the late 18^th century, with shops once hidden in basement studios and now celebrated in glass-fronted showrooms. Although the number of businesses on Savile Row declined from 40 in 1950 to 19 in the early 2000s, the establishment of the Savile Row Bespoke Association in 2004 helped revive and preserve the quintessential British art. Crafted from scratch with at least 50 hours of handwork, a Savile Row bespoke suit stands apart from made-to-measure options, which are tailored from a base suit and adjusted to flawlessly fit the client’s body. Recognised as a symbol of business authority and ultimate elegance, the bespoke suit has traditionally outfitted royalty and world leaders in luxurious wool, linen and cotton, adhering to rigid rules of cut and style. Today, however, the Row is boldly venturing into new territories.

Savile Row’s journey to modernity isn’t entirely new. The 1990s ‘New Bespoke Movement’ shook up the traditional codes of tailoring, introducing slimmer silhouettes and adding casual touches that resonated with London’s City bankers who sought more personality in their suits. As an early pioneer, Richard James infused his designs with bold colours and modern fabrics, dressing high-profile figures from Tom Cruise to Madonna in his distinctive styles. “Our clients wanted something different – a suit that retained the essence of Savile Row but felt lighter, more relaxed,” reminisces Sean Dixon, managing director at Richard James. With its bright, modern aesthetic, the flagship store, which relocated to the largest space on the street in 2000, continues to attract a younger audience through its ready-to-wear collection. Next door, the newly opened bespoke store, with vibrant pops of colours and curated art pieces, epitomises the brand’s identity and the renown casual-cool look that has paved the way for less formality on the Row.