Designer Jonathan Anderson leaves Loewe after eleven years as artistic director

There has been a recent increase in changes at the top of the major luxury houses. The latest concerns LVMH and the fashion house Loewe, which have announced, following numerous rumours, the departure of British designer Jonathan Anderson. According to several sources, he could take over as head of Dior, succeeding Maria Grazia Chiuri. ‘As this chapter closes, the story of Loewe continues to evolve. I will proudly follow this exceptional Spanish house, which I once called my own, as it continues to grow,’ he said in a statement. The designer was particularly appreciated for his visionary spirit and his boundless creativity, which enabled him to transform everyday objects into iconic pieces.

Among the latest changes, we also find Demna Gvasalia, a controversial figure at the centre of a resounding scandal at Balenciaga, who is about to take the reins of Gucci, Kering's iconic brand. Gucci, which has been in financial difficulty for several years, is taking a risky gamble with this latest choice, as the current artistic director of Balenciaga, known for his provocations, is still struggling to recover from the scandal surrounding an advertisement accused of including inappropriate images involving children. Following the announcement of this appointment, Kering shares fell by 11%, to 221.7 euros. However, in a press release, François-Henri Pinault seems confident in this choice, stating that ‘Demna's creative power is exactly what Gucci needs’.

It is indisputable that Gucci must find a new impetus and a strong strategy to overcome its crisis. After the failure of Sabato De Sarno's minimalist collections, Kering's management is once again betting on a flamboyant personality like former creative director Alessandro Michele. However, analysts remain cautious, even skeptical: the financial analysis company Bernstein gives Demna's appointment a score of 5/10, believing that his profile is not necessarily suited to this delicate mission.

Versace is also about to open a new chapter in its history. Donatella Versace, who took over the reins of the fashion house immediately after the assassination of her brother Gianni in 1997, officially left the artistic direction three days ago, thus ending decades of leadership. She had taken control of the brand at a strategic moment, just before its IPO, when the question of succession was crucial. As the holder of 20% of the company, she was long the subject of doubts about her legitimacy, pointing to her lack of training in fashion. However, as a designer and businesswoman, she was able to preserve her brother's legacy and stay the course.

Now part of the Capri Holdings group, Versace is preparing to turn a new page. The rumored successor is Dario Vitale, former Design and Image Director of Miu Miu, a brand belonging to the Prada group. This choice fuels speculation about a possible acquisition of Versace by Prada. From 1 April, Donatella Versace will remain the brand's chief ambassador to ensure its international influence. If Prada were to buy Versace, rumors suggest a nearly 1.5 billion euro transaction. Like other luxury brands, the company has suffered from the crisis: last March, its turnover fell to 1.03 billion dollars, followed by a 28% drop in sales in the second quarter, ending in September.

In this context, a change of management seemed necessary to reassure investors and breathe new life into the brand. Integration into the Prada group could reposition Versace with a more assertive Italian identity, in contrast to its current affiliation with Capri Holdings, and thus appeal more to its clientele.