Fashion

Chanel Acquires 20% of the Capital of the Italian Company Leo France

Eva Morletto

By Eva Morletto11 mars 2025

Chanel is strengthening the verticalisation of its production by acquiring a 20% stake in an Italian company based in Tuscany, specializing in the manufacture of costume jewelry and metal accessories.

Chanel Spring-Summer 2025 Read-to-Wear Collection (Chanel)

Leo France Spa, a listed company based in Tuscany and renowned for its expertise in the manufacture of costume jewellery and metal accessories, has sold 20% of its capital to Chanel. Leo France produces for the biggest international fashion houses.

The company has been in existence for over forty years and continues to be run by the Pinzauti family. The last known turnover dates back to 2023, around 216 million euros. Its net profit was 45 million euros. With its 302 employees, Leo France is a true reference in the network of Italian craft companies, especially in the sector of metal supplies for leather goods.

The financial transaction took place when the company was handed over from the founders Lorenzo and Franca Pinzauti to the next generation, namely their children Leonardo and Francesca.

Lorenzo Pinzauti will remain president of the company, while Jacques Marie Daniel Chenain, appointed by Chanel, joins the board of directors.

With this operation, Chanel aims to further consolidate its supply chain, a strategy increasingly adopted by the leaders of the major houses in the luxury sector. Bruno Pavlosky, president of the French giant's fashion division, strongly favors this type of choice, which guarantees stability in production capacities, while the uncertain economic situation is putting a strain on the global supply chain.

On this point, however, the company based on rue Cambon has denied rumors of an additional acquisition of shares, issuing a statement: ‘Chanel confirms its stake in the company (...) Leo France will continue to work with all its customers per the strategy Chanel adopted for this type of investment. Chanel denies a future 80% stake in the company’.

Leo France is not the only Italian artisanal company to have taken a financial stake in Chanel. There are also various other companies such as Cariaggi (knitwear), the Samanta tannery, Fashion Art (jeans), and Roveda (shoes).

As luxury groups strengthen their control over production, Italy confirms its appeal to investors, thanks to its excellent know-how.

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