African Designers Go Global, Neglecting Original Local Audiences

Brands from Lagos, Dakar, Cape Town, and Johannesburg are being stocked by international luxury retailers like Farfetch and Browns, worn by celebrities, and featured on the world’s biggest fashion runways. This visibility has not only elevated the status of African fashion, but has also positioned it as a powerful force in the global luxury industry.

However, with this newfound prestige comes an uncomfortable reality—many African consumers, who were once the core supporters of these brands, can no longer afford them. As prices rise to meet international market standards, African fashion is becoming increasingly inaccessible to those who first championed it. What began as an opportunity for African designers to reach new markets is now creating an economic and cultural divide, leaving local buyers feeling sidelined.

One of the primary reasons for this shift is the need for African brands to adjust their pricing as they enter the global luxury conversation. In fashion, price is not just a reflection of production costs—it is also a marker of exclusivity and desirability. “For brands aiming towards premium and luxury, the perception of pricing can affect them, especially when it comes to brand positioning,” declares Rhoda Aguonigho, fashion consultant, project manager, and founder of Lhaude Africa, a Pan-African platform and community empowering creative entrepreneurs. “African fashion brands looking to position themselves as globally competitive, have to ensure that the entire outlook fits into what would be expected, price-wise,” she continued.

Once an African designer is stocked at a high-end department store in global fashion markets like Paris or London, they are expected to maintain a certain price standard across all markets. “It’s a nuanced topic, but when prices of indigenous luxury African brands are compared with their global counterparts, it’s still afar off,” Aguonigho added.