Art and Fashion: A Flourishing Synergy in The African Luxury Industry

Art and fashion have always had an interesting relationship. Many fashion designers have argued that their garments are not just designs to be worn, but works of art to be collected. This sentiment runs through with designers across the continents, and Africa is no different. Africa’s luxury fashion scene is not only about aesthetics, but also about storytelling, preserving cultural narratives, and promoting sustainable practices. Pioneering heavyweights like Nigeria’s Deola Sagoe, whose haute couture creations have graced international runways, or Cameroonian, Imani Ayissi, have been placing the fashion industry on the global map, whilst ushering an enabling environment for newer designers like South Africa’s Laduma Ngxokolo, founder of the brand MaXhosa Africa, Thebe Magugu, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Kenneth Ize, Orange Culture Nigeria by Adebayo Oke-Lawal, Lagos Space Programme by Adeju Thompson, and many more.

Parallel to the fashion industry’s growth is Africa’s dynamic art scene. Contemporary African art has gained substantial traction worldwide, with artists like El Anatsui, Yinka Shonibare, and Wangechi Mutu commanding attention and high auction prices. Art fairs such as Art X Lagos, Dakar Biennale, and the Cape Town Art Fair, have become pivotal platforms for showcasing African talent, attracting collectors and enthusiasts from around the globe. The convergence of art and fashion in Africa is a natural progression, as both fields are deeply rooted in cultural expression and innovation. The fusion between art and fashion is fostering a new era of creativity, leading to unique, collectible fashion pieces.

This is evidenced by numerous collaborations and exhibitions that celebrate the fusion of these creative forms. The Africa Fashion exhibition at London’s V&A museum is a stark example, where objects from designers like Maison ARC, Lisa Folawiyo, Thomson Adeju, Moshions, etcetera, were on display. Similarly, “Fashion Cities Africa” exhibition at the Brighton Museum & Art Gallery in the UK highlighted the influence of art on contemporary African fashion. It showcased designers like Kenya’s Ann McCreath of KikoRomeo, and Nigeria’s Nkwo Onwuka, known for her sustainable fashion practices that use recycled materials and artisanal techniques. Moreover, the “Making Africa: A Continent of Contemporary Design” exhibition, which toured globally from 2015 to 2019, featured over 120 artists and designers, emphasising the continent’s innovative approach to design. This exhibition included celebrated designers such as South Africa's Marianne Fassler and Senegal’s Selly Raby Kane, who are renowned for their art-infused fashion collections.

Fresh on the list is the recent State of Fashion 2024 Ties that Bind, curated by Louise Bennets and Rachel Dedman, with an aim to explore the creativity in fashion, textiles, and contemporary art from across the Global South. From April through June of 2024, this exhibition unfolded not only in Arnhem, in The Netherlands, but also across three sister sites in Nairobi (Kenya), Bengaluru (India), and São Paulo (Brazil). “Art and fashion in Africa are inseparable elements of our cultural identity,” Sunny Dolat, the interlocutor curator of this exhibition for Kenya, says to Luxury Tribune. For this exhibition, Dolat curated Tradition(al), which sought to spotlight, unravel, and celebrate the intricate codes and nuances of tradition and the traditional as they manifest and are expressed in fashion across Africa. “This synergy,” Dolat continues, “not only enhances the aesthetic value of fashion pieces but also embeds a deeper narrative and meaning. For collectors, investing in fashion that embodies artistic expression is akin to acquiring a piece of cultural heritage.”

Dolat, whose Tradition(al) exhibition in Kenya included pioneering designers like Loza. Maleombho, Iamisigo by Bubu Ogisi, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Papa Oppong, Katush, Ushanga Ke, and many more, emphasised that although “the exhibition and its format of presentation foregrounds a slightly more academic and intellectual framing of textile and dress,” there are also certain levels of economic potential of the fusion or art and fashion even outside of this exhibition. “There’s a chance that this fusion of art and fashion could open up new revenue streams and markets. Collectors have begun viewing fashion as a form of art, and that can significantly boost the market value of these pieces.”

For fashion businesses and designers, understanding and leveraging the spending power of art collectors can be a game-changer. “Partnering with contemporary artists can create exclusive, limited-edition collections that appeal to collectors,” Katharine Earnhardt, founder of Mason Lane Art Advisory Services, says to Luxury Tribune. Earnhardt’s portfolio extends into Museum of Modern Art, Christie’s Inc, and Gurr Johns, Parsons School of Design, Royal Bank of Canada, Business of Home, Upwards & Associates, High Point Market, and the New York Design Center, and many others. “These collaborations not only enhance the brand’s prestige but also attract a new audience segment. It positions fashion pieces as collectible items, thereby appealing to art collectors. Fashion brands should consider showcasing their work at prominent events where African art and design are celebrated,” she continues. As collectors are often drawn to the stories behind the pieces they acquire, fashion brands are emphasising the cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and artistic inspiration behind their creations. Providing a detailed provenance is proving to increase the perceived value of fashion items.

The future of the African luxury fashion industry looks promising, with art playing an increasingly integral role. As designers continue to draw inspiration from Africa’s rich artistic traditions and collaborate with contemporary artists, the boundaries between fashion and art will continue to blur. This convergence not only elevates the status of African fashion on the global stage, but also presents a unique opportunity for fashion businesses to tap into the growing market of art collectors. By harnessing the spending power of collectors and integrating art into their designs, African fashion brands can carve out a distinct and influential niche in the global luxury market.