Watches & Jewellery

270 Years of Vacheron Constantin: A Pivotal Anniversary

Cristina D’Agostino

By Cristina D’Agostino13 janvier 2025

The oldest watch manufacturer in the world celebrates its 270th anniversary in 2025. On January 13, the festivities commence with the unveiling of the iconic Historiques 222 model in steel. More innovations and records are set to follow. In a joint interview, Sandrine Donguy, Product and Innovation Director of Vacheron Constantin, and Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director, reflect on what this milestone represents.

The new Historiques 222 watch was unveiled on 13 January to mark the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. Made in steel, it revives a legendary creation first introduced in 1977 to mark the company's 222nd anniversary (DR).

As January begins, Vacheron Constantin has been eagerly awaiting this moment for years. On January 13, the Maison marks the launch of the Historiques 222 collection in steel—a highly anticipated model since its 2022 revival in yellow gold. This initial release exceeded expectations and internal predictions, leading to some frustration among collectors, who cherish rare pieces. Today, the new steel version aims, in part, to satisfy them. Production, however, will remain “controlled,” according to Sandrine Donguy and Christian Selmoni, who are speaking together about this model for the first time. This launch marks the beginning of a series of innovations planned for this anniversary year, led by Laurent Perves, the young and charismatic new CEO of Vacheron Constantin as of January 1. His appointment reflects Johann Rupert's vision—Richemont's chairman—to bring fresh energy to its brands, including Vacheron Constantin, solidifying its recent ascent into the exclusive circle of watchmakers surpassing one billion Swiss francs in annual revenue.

Sandrine Donguy, Director of Product and Innovation at Vacheron Constantin and Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage (DR)

270 Years of History is a significant legacy. What does it represent in today’s world shaped by globalization and artificial intelligence?

Sandrine Donguy. This legacy provides a solid and broad foundation that serves as an exceptional creative playground for drawing inspiration and reimagining collections with a contemporary twist. Our heritage is always the starting point for new creations. This approach creates value because it is closely tied to the authenticity, identity, and longevity of the Maison—the only watch manufacturer with uninterrupted production since 1755.

Is there a sense of responsibility when it comes to this history?

Christian Selmoni. Responsibility comes naturally, of course. Our heritage is deeply intertwined with the history of watchmaking. The authenticity Sandrine mentioned is fundamental. It reflects our ability to maintain, develop, and innovate within tradition. As you pointed out, digitalization has brought a phenomenal acceleration of time and a sense of scarcity regarding personal time. I often reflect on what makes high watchmaking and Vacheron Constantin successful. The wristwatch is the last mechanical object we interact with daily. It reconnects us to an analog world that we’ve partly left behind. This link is reassuring, symbolizing craftsmanship and the noble expression of human work.

SD. I would add that this sense of responsibility makes Vacheron Constantin a guardian of exceptional craftsmanship and mastery. It creates a sense of trust that our clients greatly value.

CS. Our values are inherited from the past, but 270 years of history isn’t an achievement in itself. This legacy must remain rooted in the 21st century and embrace modernity. Our watches are always in tune with the times.

What does this legacy mean to you personally?

Les Cabinotiers - The Berkley Grand Complication : La montre la plus compliquée au monde. Une première mondiale sous la forme d’un calendrier chinois perpétuel programmé jusqu’en 2200. Elle intègre 63 complications (DR)

SD. After the three major innovations of 2024—including the Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication watch—it has been a personal challenge to propose even more extraordinary innovations for the 270th anniversary. Throughout the year, you’ll see very modern creations across a variety of categories.

CS. What fascinates me is Vacheron Constantin’s ability to seize the moment in every era: the creation of the American 1921 during the Roaring Twenties; the wildly extravagant women’s watches after World War II; or the asymmetrical, gender-neutral watch in 1972. Personally, my hope lies in this continuity—encapsulating our values in creations anchored in 2025.

Vacheron Constantin's collections are enriched by a wealth of highly original shapes over the course of its 270-year history. On the left, the first ladies' wristwatch created in 1889, in the centre the Prestige watch created in 1972, and on the right the first version of the Historiques 222 watch, first revealed in 1977 to mark the company's 222nd anniversary (DR).

What trends of 2025 might be seen as emblematic in 20 or 30 years?

SD. It will undoubtedly be about breaking records in innovation and the industrial transformation of the Maison.

CS. In 30 years, people will recognize how current technological advancements in watch design and manufacturing—like 3D modeling and simulation—opened new doors for functionality and mechanisms. It’s the sublimation of Vacheron Constantin’s horological artistry through contemporary technologies, serving the intelligence of craftsmanship.

What are three defining moments in the brand’s history that you find significant?

SD. For me, the key moments are: the creation of the Maison in 1755 by a 24-year-old apprentice with ambitious dreams; the partnership with François Constantin, who brought commercial expertise and drove international expansion; and in 1880, adopting the Maltese Cross as both a graphical symbol and a technical feature to enhance barrel precision.

CS. I see the arrival of Georges-Auguste Leschot in 1839 as pivotal—he introduced standardization with the pantograph. Then, in the early 20th century, the transition from pocket watches to wristwatches created a creative playground that led to bold new designs through the 1940s, with Vacheron Constantin playing a crucial role. Lastly, the 1980s-90s marked a turning point, with the revival of mechanical watches being appreciated as beautifully crafted objects rather than mere time-telling tools. A notable milestone was the 2007 Métiers d’Art Les Masques project—a bold and future-focused showcase of craftsmanship.

Métiers d'Art lies at the heart of Vacheron Constantin's expertise (DR)

How has Vacheron Constantin managed to endure crises over the centuries and today?

CS. By staying true to traditional watchmaking and maintaining the highest standards of quality.

SD. It’s also about preserving a timeless, elegant, and refined style that makes a Vacheron Constantin immediately recognizable.

At the time, chronometry competitions, world fairs, and special orders stimulated the watchmaking industry.Do milestones like the 270th anniversary still act as catalysts for innovation?

The pocket watch - Les Cabinotiers Ref 57260, created in 2015 and featuring 57 complications (DR)

SD. Indeed, the role of these institutions devoted to mastering precision and quality has shifted toward the customer. Today, it is the customer who expects this from us, who pushes us to innovate. But ultimately, this has always been our desire. In 1889, Vacheron created the first metal wristwatch for women, with sculptures of goddesses on the side, a miniature watch that was wound by a rotating bezel. This watch adapted to the new lifestyle of women. Then came the creation of the Les Cabinotiers piece - Reference 57260, which was the most complex pocket watch ever made. Finally, the arrival of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat in 2019, which allows the client to adapt how it is worn.

CS. This question is very interesting because chronometry reveals how the watchmaking industry was organized from the late 19th century until the 1970s. Observatory competitions disappeared with quartz. But it remains a true value for the client. The playground of watchmaking feats is more alive than ever, including ultrathin designs, which bring about phenomenal stimulation. It is a very dynamic industry. Anniversaries are an opportunity to have a temporal marker for innovation. Vacheron Constantin really began to capitalize on this starting with the 250th anniversary. At that point, technical resources could be mobilized to set new records.

What special role will the Historiques 222 model play this year?

Fitted with an integrated bracelet, the Historiques 222 model in steel has a flat, functional monobloc case topped by an imposing fluted bezel and decorated with a Maltese cross visible at 5 o'clock (DR)

CS. The Historiques 222 was Vacheron Constantin’s first sport-luxury watch, launched in the 1970s alongside the rise of integrated steel bracelet watches. It was discontinued in 1985. Its shorter history compared to competitors resulted in limited production quantities. We deliberately waited until 2022 to relaunch it in yellow gold, paying homage to the original’s exclusivity (150 pieces in the 1970s).

SD. While the Historiques 222 remains an iconic signature, the 2025 version has been entirely modernized, with a new caliber, sapphire case back, improved bracelet integration, and a triple-position clasp. These details make all the difference. Today, we launch it in steel.

CS. Its 2022 success was overwhelming. If we had launched it in steel then, we wouldn’t have met demand.

Today, are your industrial resources sufficient to meet demand?

CS. The Historiques collection has always had controlled production. Vacheron Constantin expresses itself in multiple ways. Balance is fundamental. The sport-elegant segment must not cannibalize our other classic watches.

How do you want the 270th anniversary to resonate with 18-25-year-olds?

CS. The vintage trend strongly appeals to this generation—it evokes optimism and glamour from a bygone era. The Historiques 222 embodies this through a vintage lens. This anniversary is a chance to strengthen connections with clients of all ages.

Laurent Perves took up his position as CEO of Vacheron Constantin on 1 January 2025 (DR)

What can the new CEO, Laurent Perves, bring to this anniversary?

SD. Over 270 years, each leader has brought new energy to the Maison. Laurent Perves, with over 20 years of industry experience, has been pivotal in shaping Vacheron Constantin’s positioning over the past eight years and continues this legacy seamlessly.

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