“Vacheron Constantin’s Long-Term Creation is Incompatible with Industrial Growth”

Christian Selmoni is a unique figure in the typically classic world of haute horlogerie. Known for his impeccable taste, he has served as the Director of Heritage and Style at Vacheron Constantin for eight years. Clad in a green tartan jacket, pink trousers, and matching socks, his British-inspired style has become his signature look. For three decades, he has found a reflection of his passion for design and craftsmanship in the brand’s uniquely styled creations. Initially the Product Director and later the Artistic Director, he also became the brand’s spokesperson with the arrival of Louis Ferla as CEO in 2017. Selmoni maintains a keen eye on the product and heritage departments, which remain close to his heart. Since then, he has learned to narrate stories beyond just design. In April, during Watches & Wonders, Christian Selmoni gave an interview to Luxury Tribune, eagerly sharing his thoughts on the brand’s style, heritage, and strategy as Vacheron Constantin becomes one of the most coveted names in haute horlogerie. According to the Morgan Stanley report published on February 28, 2024, Vacheron Constantin achieved a revenue of one billion francs, with an 8% growth, surpassing market performance.

There has been a real buzz around the Vacheron Constantin brand in recent years. How do you explain this?

Christina Selmoni. The successive arrivals of Louis Ferla as CEO and Laurent Perves as Marketing Director have significantly contributed to this success since late 2016. The brand’s repositioning and communication overhaul, along with portfolio structuring by reducing the product range, have driven this new momentum. In 2016, the decision to redesign the Overseas collection also shaped this new image, blending contemporary, classic, and refined elements. These stylistic choices, always accompanied by a touch of originality and boldness, have since defined our creations. The Overseas III symbolized this new vision with a subtle 70s touch that enhanced its visibility.

This year, Vacheron Constantin made a strong impression with the Berkley Grand Complication and the Egérie - The Pleats of Time, a concept watch. Isn’t this an unusual move for the brand?

Indeed, for decades, the brand remained very discreet, often seen as conservative despite its innovations. Today, it has shed that inhibition. The boldness is evident, but our heritage pieces were just as daring. It’s a return to what defines Vacheron Constantin. I’ve long admired the work of Yiqing Yin (n.d.l.r. Haute couture designer who collaborated with Vacheron Constantin on the Egérie - The Pleats of Time) even before her collaboration with us. Vacheron Constantin wasn’t expected to reveal a concept watch for women, though our history shows otherwise. With the Egérie - The Pleats of Time, we stepped out of our comfort zone, merging haute couture, horology, and perfumery through a collaboration with perfumer Dominique Ropion. This exercise allowed us to embrace a new approach to watchmaking.

Is this a first for Vacheron Constantin?

Yes, although the Quai de L’Ile watch in 2008 was an innovative and unexpected collection that marked its time, a true bet on the modern expression of Vacheron Constantin’s style. As for the Berkley Grand Complication, another challenge in horological complications, it was the client who prompted us to take it on, even as the very complex Reference 57260 was still in production. The perpetual Chinese calendar was the playground for this exceptional challenge. It took eleven years to create a feat and now a world record, though breaking records was never Vacheron Constantin’s goal.

Does Vacheron Constantin plan to develop the creation of unique pieces further?

Yes, absolutely. The Les Cabinotiers department is fundamental. Although the number of pieces it produces is small, it’s a major asset resulting from the relationships built with collectors. They drive innovation.

Vacheron Constantin is also becoming iconic thanks to work on historical models like the 222, which are now highly sought after. Is this part of a strategy to enhance desirability and heritage value?

I believe the Historiques collection has always played a role in enhancing our image and legitimacy. These are niche watches with strong character, like the 222, the American 1921, or the Cornes de Vache. I see this collection as a reminder of Vacheron Constantin’s boldness and creativity throughout its history.

Do these models resonate more with the public today?

It’s possible, as we are in a vintage trend that extends beyond watchmaking. We have many watches that would be perfect candidates for this trend, but we don’t release them every year.

Do you intend to accelerate this trend given their success?

Today, Vacheron Constantin has an integrated manufacture that produces in-house movements of excellent handmade quality with extremely high finishing standards. This work requires training, patience, and long-term creation, which is incompatible with industrial growth. Vacheron Constantin is a generalist in haute horlogerie: we have the elegant sports style with the Overseas collection, classic with Patrimony, relaxed elegance with Fiftysix, the feminine universe with Egérie, and Métiers d’Art. These are our pillars, leaving little room for strategy changes without affecting one collection or another.

Which means there’s no room to create a new line?

The last collection launched was Egérie in 2020. It wouldn’t be reasonable to add another new line now.

Vacheron Constantin will soon celebrate its 270th anniversary. What does this celebration mean to you personally?

I’ve had the chance to celebrate the 240th, 250th, and 260th anniversaries. Over these decades, I’ve seen the Maison evolve. I think the 250th anniversary was a springboard for the future, making these milestones interesting to understand. The 250th anniversary deepened our expertise and gave visibility to highly complicated watches. The 260th anniversary in 2015 was marked by the colossal Reference 57260 and other beautiful complications. Today, the 270th anniversary should celebrate the art of watchmaking as conceived by Vacheron Constantin, expressed through design, technique, decorative arts, and innovation, with a little twist!