The Stella McCartney Brand Leaves LVMH And Regains Its Independence
By Justine Offredi28 janvier 2025
On Monday, British fashion house Stella McCartney announced in a press release that it had bought out the French luxury goods giant's minority stake in its company.
Stella McCartney is leaving the fold of LVMH by buying out the group's minority stake (49%) in its fashion house, thereby regaining its independence after some five years of collaboration with the luxury giant.
‘This new chapter for Stella McCartney reflects its desire to write a new page in its history independently after working closely with the group to strengthen the fundamentals and governance of its house,’ said the two parties in a statement published on Monday. The amount of the transaction was not specified.
Despite the split, Stella McCartney will continue to work with LVMH as a global ambassador for sustainability, advising CEO Bernard Arnault and the executive team on sustainability issues. Founded in 2001 by British designer Stella McCartney, daughter of Paul McCartney, the brand is one of the pioneers of eco-friendly fashion in the luxury sector. From the outset, it has refused to use materials of animal origin (leather, fur, feathers) and advocated ethical alternatives. In 2022, the brand posted sales of 46.2 million euros, up 23% from the previous year, but has not communicated more about its figures since.
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Before surprising the fashion world by joining the LVMH portfolio in 2019, Stella McCartney had already bought out the shares of its former partner, Kering, ending a 17-year collaboration. This decision reflects Stella McCartney's desire to run her brand independently while continuing to influence the luxury goods industry towards more sustainable practices. Does this choice conceal a difficulty in implementing her ideas within a group that is currently very keen to review the artistic direction of its brands?
It has to be said that Stella McCartney is sailing against the tide of small independent luxury brands, which, under pressure from the sector's empires, are struggling to exist, particularly in the current context of a slowdown in the luxury sector. Even for some of the big players in the market, it is difficult to stay in the competition: in 2024, Burberry lost 70% of its value after a series of negative results, and last September was excluded from the London Stock Exchange's flagship index (FTSE100). The latest rumors concerning Moncler's potential takeover of the brand were finally denied. Simon Porte Jacquemus has also announced that, despite its international success with its eponymous brand, it is looking for investors to support its global growth. Italian investment fund Style Capital recently confirmed its interest in the brand, but no takeover has been announced to date.
However, some luxury heavyweights are proving the contrary and maintaining their market share independently: Chanel, owned by the Wertheimers, has just been named Brand Finance's most valuable luxury brand in 2025 at $38 billion, while Hermès is expected to post remarkable sales in 2024, accompanied by solid growth on the stock market. Brunello Cucinelli, the king of Italian cashmere, has also unsettled the luxury goods market with a new record performance in 2024 (sales of €1.278 billion).
Becoming independent is risky, but if it succeeds, it will attract the full attention of the sector's customers, who are looking for authentic, exclusive, and innovative luxury.
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