Nicolas Bos: “L’Ecole des Arts Joailliers is Probably Van Cleef & Arpels’Most Ambitious Institutionnal Project”

Over a decade ago, Nicolas Bos, CEO and Artistic Director of Van Cleef & Arpels, envisioned what has now become a consecration of jewelry expertise. L’École des Arts Joailliers, whose growing success demanded larger premises, has now established its headquarters in an 18th-century mansion listed as a historical monument on the Grands Boulevards in Paris. Beautifully renovated, the spectacular Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau opened its doors to the public this summer. Sixty professors—comprising jewelers, jewelry historians, lapidaries, gemologists, and experts in Japanese lacquer and grand feu enamel—offer courses in modular formats, accessible to the general public from the age of four. A dedicated, unique library serves as the cornerstone of this institution.

Addressing the evident and growing desire for knowledge in jewelry, Nicolas Bos aimed to fulfill this need by establishing a school distinguished by the multidisciplinary nature of its courses and the variety of its approaches. Although not designed to award certificates, the school provides in-depth explorations for those interested or pure enjoyment for others. Supported by Van Cleef & Arpels, it is a temple dedicated to the craft and beauty of jewelry-making, without promoting any specific brand. This is the essence of the place; it is not built to glorify the Maison.

Now leading Richemont, with Catherine Rénier appointed as CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels on July 3, Bos's interview, gathered by Luxury Tribune at the school's press opening, is one of his final testimonials at the helm of Van Cleef & Arpels. However, it certainly won’t be the last expression of his passion for jewelry-making.

Was the opening of L’École des Arts Joailliers at Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau in Paris, designed as a comprehensive knowledge center on High Jewelry, your ambition?

Our ambition stemmed from identifying a need for knowledge over a decade ago, expressed by many, which we wanted to address with a beautiful project, without any desire to dominate the field. We noticed a lack of awareness, visibility, and accessibility in the world of jewelry beyond the commercial relationship between client and seller. There was a broader need to integrate jewelry into art and culture, decorative arts, and even science. This visibility had disappeared since the 1980s, with the public’s interest shifting more towards visual arts, at the expense of decorative arts. Fashion and design captured public attention, while jewelry was relegated to the back pages of fashion magazines. This desire to create an educational offering on jewelry to engage the interested public beyond professional training led to the establishment of the school in 2012, akin to what renowned chefs offer in gastronomy or oenology. The school provides both an experience and an education in the field, with an emphasis on enjoyment. We started at Hôtel d’Évreux, occupying it temporarily one to two weeks a month, with educational approaches tailored to diverse audiences. This initiative was successful and evidently met a need. It organically extended to other activities like conferences, conversations, and exhibitions.

Has this idea also been exported abroad?

Yes, absolutely. After ten years in Paris, permanent sites have recently opened in Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Dubai.

Is this enthusiasm accelerating?

Yes, across all generations, with workshops for children as young as four offered at the school. However, we do not focus solely on the younger generation. There have always been young people interested in these professions. The connection to jewelry and ornamentation is universal. Major museum exhibitions organized by jewelry brands attract a broad public when done well.

How can the art of jewelry be effectively showcased?