Hydra: The Most Desirable of Greek Islands

Just an hour by hydrofoil from the port of Piraeus, Hydra is a jewel set in the turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea. At the entrance of the Saronic Gulf, this true pearl boasts one of the most beautiful villages in the Mediterranean, built in an amphitheater style, along with splendid 18th-century shipowners' mansions. In the 1930s, Henry Miller described Hydra as "a rock that rises from the sea like a giant petrified loaf of bread" in his book "The Colossus of Maroussi." In the 1960s, Leonard Cohen, Sophia Loren, and the Kennedys made it their home. Artists and avant-garde figures have since followed, including the American Brice Marden, Yannis Kounellis, and photographer Erwin Wurm. More recently, the Guillon family, owners of the Swiss cosmetics brand Valmont, established an outpost of their iconoclastic contemporary art foundation here and own a sailing yacht.

There's nothing to do in Hydra except go to the pebble beach or watch the sunset. Wander through alleys filled with cats and bougainvillea. Add to this the absence of paved roads, cars, bicycles, bars, and nightclubs, which help preserve its authentic charm. Secret coves, mountains topped with monasteries, and walks on unpaved paths... Hydra stands in stark contrast to the summer mythology of other Greek islands, similar to the distant and discreet Tinos. It reveals itself to those who know how to tame it, moving beyond the waterfront filled with day-trippers who, come evening, leave the island on large ferries like a flock of sparrows. Peaceful and deserted in winter, Hydra becomes a hot spot for contemporary art each season.

Gallery owners, collectors, and artists gather here, thanks in part to the Deste Foundation, established in 1983 by Dakis Joannou, an octogenarian, wealthy businessman, and major collector of Cypriot origin. Joannou is akin to a Greek Pinault, attracting dealers, gallery owners, and art curators worldwide. He owns several thousand works, estimated at hundreds of millions of dollars.

Among his possessions is "Guilty," the famous multicolored yacht repainted by Jeff Koons, of whom he is a patron. The 35-meter yacht almost blocks the entrance to Hydra's modest port when docked. Koons, one of the world's most expensive artists, painted the hull and gangway with geometric patterns inspired by British naval camouflage paintings from World War II, known as "razzle dazzle," but in a more colorful, eye-catching version. Joannou also purchased the old slaughterhouses, a small rectangular building facing the sea, which hosted a Koons exhibition in 2022. The venue has also showcased works by Marcel Duchamp and Philippe Parreno, among others. A drab building with no charm, the former goat slaughterhouse has been transformed into an arty hotspot.