Africa’s new designer scene redefines handcraft luxury

Across the continent, the new designer scene is redefining luxury by blending age-old techniques with contemporary aesthetics and creating pieces that carry profound stories of heritage and innovation.

In 2019, South Africa’s Thebe Magugu became the first African designer to win the €300,000 prize money of the revered LVMH Prize Awards, with sustainable designers like Kenneth Ize leading up to the semi-finals. The following year, Nigerian-Indian Priya Ahluwalia was a joint prize winner. In 2021, the eponymous South African design label Lukhanyo Mdingi won the €150,000 LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize, while South Africa’s Mmuso Maxwell took it home in 2022. In 2023, Adeju Thomsom of the Lagos Space Programme was announced as the winner of the International Woolmark Prize Awards. These designers, alongside many others, are not only using artisanal craftsmanship to reshape the perceptions of African fashion but are also commanding attention on the prestigious runways of New York Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, and London Fashion Week.

For four consecutive years, Viviers Studio, the South African sustainable label founded in 2019 by Lozanne Viviers, has been a recurring showcasing designer at Milan Fashion Week, one of fashion’s big fours. For the brand, as much as international recognition is important, one of the core reasons for the constant showcase is to continually place a knack on the well-crafted luxurious garments artisans in the continent are creating. “Our approach to making clothing is very much collaborative, and we’ve got the best tailors and craftsmen in South Africa,” Viviers says to Luxury Tribune, “and a big objective of Viviers Studio is to really showcase to the world that there are incredible and luxurious materials and products coming out of Africa,” she continues.

Viviers’ innovative use of local materials and her commitment to ethical production have earned her acclaim, culminating in her being stocked by luxury e-commerce fashion marketplaces like The Folklore. As Viviers Studio works with local artisans, a predominant fabric of choice is merino wool, which is one of South Africa’s largest exports. The country produces 2-3% of the wool globally and about 12% of the world’s apparel wool used in countries like Italy and France. This has put things in perspective for brands like Viviers Studio looking for ways to support local communities and further project the African fashion industry through the production of artisanal luxurious garments. “We see our investors as art collectors,” Viviers says. “They invest not just in what the items represent but also in the pride that luxury items can be made in Africa,” she adds.

Sentiments like this are not just exclusive to Viviers Studio. Lukhanyo Mdingi, the visionary behind the eponymous Lukhanyo Mdindi brand, also shares the same sentiments. For him, the label embodies the spirit of Africa's avant-garde luxury movement. Mdingi’s designs fuse traditional South African textiles with futuristic silhouettes, challenging conventional notions of glamour. “Africa is a kaleidoscope of textures and colors,” he shares with Luxury Tribune, “and one of my major goals is to create a dialogue between heritage and innovation.” Since winning the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2021, the brand has gone on to officially showcase in highly covered fashion weeks like Paris Fashion Week as part of the platform’s official showcasing designer. “While it was a great opportunity to showcase my brand, it was also a way for us to double down on the incredible premium garments made by our community of artisans back home,” he adds.

One of the distinguishing features of Africa's artisanal luxury is its deep connection to traditional craftsmanship. Oftentimes, the ethos of artisanal luxury in Africa extends beyond aesthetics and is deeply rooted in sustainability and artisanal craftsmanship. Many African designers and artisans prioritize eco-friendly practices, using locally sourced, organic materials and implementing ethical production methods. These designers champion sustainability by incorporating recycled materials and supporting fair trade principles. By embracing sustainable practices, these designers are reducing the environmental impact of waste and fostering responsible consumption habits in the luxury market.

One of the most compelling aspects of Africa's artisanal luxury movement is its impact on local communities. By collaborating with skilled artisans and small-scale producers, designers are driving economic development and empowering individuals who have historically been marginalized. Lukhanyo Mdingi emphasizes the importance of this connection. “Our designs celebrate the artistry of local South African artisans,” he explains. “We work closely with communities to preserve traditional techniques such as beading and weaving, infusing them into contemporary designs.”

Despite the growth of artisanal luxury in Africa, challenges persist. Access to markets, infrastructure, and financing remains a barrier for many designers. Yet, there's optimism fueled by the increasing global interest in ethical fashion and unique craftsmanship. “Collaboration and support are key,” affirms Viviers. “By fostering partnerships and investing in local talent, we are using our label to elevate Africa's artisanal luxury sector onto the global stage,” she says. This shows that Africa's era of artisanal luxury represents more than a regional phenomenon; it is a global movement towards authenticity and purpose in fashion. As consumers become more discerning, they seek products that resonate with deeper meanings—pieces that embody heritage, sustainability, and individuality. “Artisanal luxury isn't just about what we wear, but about what we stand for. It's a celebration of creativity, culture, and consciousness,” Viviers adds.

In order to mitigate some of these abounding challenges, designers in Africa are looking to global hotspots and large competitions, hoping to be recognized and offered grants that help to further project their brands and communities at large. “Winning the [LVMH Karl Lagerfeld] Prize, for example, was definitely one of the many steps in the right direction for us,” Mdingi says, “and as we can appreciate, creating luxury garments isn’t cheap.” By investing in skills development, fostering entrepreneurship, and strengthening support networks, stakeholders across the industry can ensure the sustainable growth of Africa's artisanal luxury sector while preserving its cultural richness.

Africa's artisanal luxury sector is not only redefining the perception of luxury but also reshaping the narrative of African creativity on the world stage. As Africa's artisanal luxury sector continues to evolve, its impact on the global fashion landscape is undeniable. With its emphasis on craftsmanship, sustainability, and community empowerment, this movement embodies a new paradigm of luxury—one that celebrates tradition while embracing innovation. With its blend of tradition, sustainability, and compelling stories, it invites us all to embrace a new vision of luxury—one that honors the past, celebrates the present, and shapes the future.