Antoine Pin: “In 2024, Swiss Genius celebrates Swissness, a fundamental value in optimizing the pursuit of excellence.”

Is the dimension of Swissness an added value in the genesis of innovation? This is the central question that students from selected Swiss universities and higher education institutions participating in the third edition of Bulgari Swiss Genius will ponder. Initiated by Bulgari, the online media Luxury Tribune, and the Swiss Center for Luxury Research, this prize focusing on innovation in corporate social responsibility is open this year to universities and higher education institutions such as HEC Lausanne (UNIL), HEC St-Gallen (SG), EPFL (E4S), ECAL, ZHAW, Università della Svizzera italiana (USI), Uni Neuchâtel (UniNE), and Glion Hotel Management School.

Students can participate in the competition on a voluntary basis by proposing projects aligned with the theme of the 2024-2025 edition: "Is 'Swissness' an added value for luxury brands in terms of innovative and sustainable solutions?" Starting on March 6, 2024, the third edition of Swiss Genius will offer coaching sessions and roundtable discussions to enrich students' projects. Two selection rounds will be organized before the final event on July 3, 2025.

Antoine Pin, Director of Bulgari's Watch Division, explains why Swissness is now central and how the Italian brand, under the ownership of the French luxury group LVMH, early on capitalized on this value intrinsic to Swiss innovation.

Is it challenging for an Italian brand owned by a French luxury group to highlight Swissness or Swiss Made?

It's both simple and complex. Simple because we share the same values of authenticity and respect for craftsmanship between Italy, France, and Switzerland. The Bulgari family naturally chose Switzerland to develop its watchmaking activities, starting in the early 1970s, even before the brand was part of LVMH. The notion of history, longevity, and respect for regional expertise and traditions is a principle within LVMH, spanning many of the group's activities. Speaking of Swissness and Swiss Made for Bulgari aligns with this logic.

Does complexity arise from this multiculturalism?

Precisely. That's the uniqueness of Bulgari. Generally, on a societal level, one can derive the best or worst from cultural blends. Either you see others as a source of enrichment or a threat. At Bulgari, the challenge is to see the best: the pooling of knowledge and receptivity. But it requires learning, practicing, and instilling it within teams.

How do you differentiate Swissness from Swiss Made?

Swiss Made is a legal term, a technical standard. Swissness is a mindset and should govern. It's a challenging concept to define but can signify consensus, shared values, and a common vision. Within this concept, there's a significant emphasis on rigor and responsibility, a drive to find the best solution. Combined with the pursuit of French excellence championed by LVMH, its optimization is paramount. Swissness can address this by being able to reconcile hyper-creativity – in which we are one of the few watchmaking houses to have an integrated design studio led by Fabrizio Buonamassa – and technological innovation. It's a way of expressing excellence. Swissness contributes to this through "knowing how to work together." Swiss Made, to me, is a remarkable yet underestimated marketing tool that bestows reputational value. It's a significant purchasing factor, recognized as a mark of pride, and has become a distinguishing feature. Switzerland hosts the best watchmakers and technical laboratories, and this crucible of excellence attracts many foreigners. However, in my opinion, this attractiveness is fueled by Swissness, which is stronger than Swiss Made.

We know that at least 60% of the product's value must be labeled Swiss Made, but how much does Swiss Made contribute to the perceived value of the watch?

It's very difficult to evaluate since it's intangible! A number of non-Swiss watch brands are thriving today, such as Lange & Söhne, Glashütte, Graham, and Bremont, indicating that Swiss Made is not imperative for success in luxury watchmaking.

However, conversely, it's evident that Swiss Made ensures the concentration and preservation of watchmaking excellence in Switzerland. Therefore, this standard is a significant factor in creating value.

What is the added value of Swissness in terms of sustainability and ethics, for example?

Swissness fits perfectly and makes sense in these two areas because it signifies the pursuit of the best possible solution without falling into complacency. It necessarily involves seeking the greatest common denominator, pushing boundaries upward, and never leveling downward.

What do you hope to initiate through this third edition of Swiss Genius?

The beauty of being a young student is to be absolutist or to have the desire to revolutionize the system. The problem lies in being able to share the complexity of transformation in the global vision. The ecological transition is very costly. Sustainability at any cost is possible, but in the watchmaking context, it may compromise entry-level products. Is the idea to become elitist? This is where it's interesting to listen to representatives of these new generations and their solutions that integrate this issue. We must obviously understand their expectations and ideals because they are the future of the planet. But we must also expose them to the challenges of the present and work with them on a transition solution that combines these two visions. This is what I like about Swissness: turning a constraint into an opportunity, each playing its role, from industrialists to brands, including the younger generation. The Swiss Genius Prize can help bring perspectives closer. Bringing young generations into the reality of the issues rather than keeping them in the realm of injunction or wishful thinking without delving into the heart of the matter. Swiss Genius is an engine that allows us to move from theory to real dialogue.

How do you intend to evolve Swiss Made and Swissness?

One of our significant constraints is the lack of labor because many schools have closed. In the past, watchmaking was somewhat insular, and innovation only followed watchmaking codes. Since then, with the arrival of other industries, this framework has shattered. Micromechanics is a technology that consumes very little energy and adapts to many fields, from medical to aerospace. We need to create schools that open up to these industries. Students must have access to these fields. Switzerland has a place in this expertise. Switzerland is a luxury product and an economic miracle, all while maintaining a concrete relationship with productivity. It's a strength that we must continue to develop.