Opinion

Ultraluxury and hyperbuzz: when extremes no longer meet

On the fashion planet, extremes have always sparked off luxury and those who wear it. Oversize or minimal, sequins or strings of pearls, the idea of multifaceted fashion has been leading the way since the dawn of time. However, recently, two poles seem to be emerging, two diametrically opposed desires to convey style are invading our news feeds. At the Met Gala, the wildest fantasies paid tribute to Kaiser Karl, the legendary artistic director of Chanel and Fendi, the same man who will soon be the subject of a mini-series on Disney +. Everything was in place for the buzz to happen, in the service of the fundraiser organized by the papess of fashion Anna Wintour. Jared Leto as Choupette, Rihanna as an immaculate bride emerging from a giant camellia, the eccentricity was at its peak - but that's the rule of the game at the Met Gala. Yet it also said a lot about the current trend to find luxury more shimmering when it's on show. On the other hand, Quiet Luxury, that silent luxury worn by the ultra-rich, is back in force. Paradoxically, it also hits hard in the media. Its language, however, is the opposite of the glitz. It cannot be read in open book and is only understood by the happy few. Noisy Luxury v/s Quiet Luxury, the extremes are widening. It's up to the designers to build a language capable of bringing them into dialogue.

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