Luxury must lead the way in cultural appreciation

The fashion industry has had an ambiguous relationship with cultural appropriation for decades. However, a heightened awareness of the phenomenon is emerging, accelerated by the current era, where diversity and inclusion are under scrutiny. But what does the term actually mean? Broadly speaking, it refers to Western brands that use symbols, prints and clothing from other cultures without correctly crediting their source or respecting their meaning. Recent examples include Isabel Marant, which has been accused of commercially exploiting traditional Mexican indigenous designs in several collections, or Louis Vuitton's Palestinian-inspired scarf, which was removed from the website in 2021 after being criticized on social media. In most cases, the brand acknowledges its mistake and withdraws the garment with an apology, under pressure from social networks. This awareness can be an important lever for indigenous cultures, and encourage design that respects communities, rather than excluding them from the conversation. The designers celebrating craftsmanship in fashion

There’s no denying that there is now a greater call for redressing the historic imbalances between creative directors and craftspeople within the fashion industry. Sustainability and transparency have been sources of concern for the past years and shoppers are more engaged with traceability, asking where and by whom their clothes are made. “We see more and more brands pursuing grassroots collaborations and a more responsible artistic exchange as they resonate with a wide range of consumers,” says Rebecca Hui, founder and CEO of Roots Studio which builds fair partnerships between indigenous artists and fashion brands through textile design licensing.

The agency works with local communities with an abundant artistic heritage to bring their arts and crafts to the fashion world, generating a sustainable source of income while popularising and preserving their traditions. Through cultural education and a consistent dialogue, the team ensures a seamless creative collaboration where voices from both sides are heard and enables transparent storytelling that is sensible of cultural meanings and religious sentiments.