Exuberance and a Color Shower on the Haute Couture Runways of 2024

Around the runways, smartphones were raised not only to capture the glamorous people but also to immortalize the latest haute couture creations. The iconic J LO graced the shows at Schiaparelli, Armani Privé, and Eli Saab. Rihanna, fashionably late, made her entrance at Dior in a black shawl-collar jacket, a pencil skirt, and a matching baseball cap, while Kylie Jenner, accompanied by her daughter, attended Valentino. Fashion would be incomplete without the stars, and haute couture owes much to its cherished clientele. Lynn Wyatt, an 88-year-old American and one of the world's foremost haute couture collectors, no longer travels to witness the Parisian runway spectacles. She admits she doesn’t even know how many designs are in her wardrobe. Designers and boutiques visit her Texas residence to showcase their creations. Wyatt, a living witness to a bygone era, confesses, "I maintain personal and warm relationships with many designers. They are very friendly towards me."

Couture takes center stage, but it owes much to its artisans. These are professions that continue to inspire the younger generation. "Today, couture is a testament to complete craftsmanship. It requires precision, the ability to imagine a 3D flat pattern, a pursuit of perfection, and the skill to combine traditional and innovative materials in a single piece," explains Christine Walter-Bonini, President of the International Academy of Cutting in Paris. The AICP and IFM stand as the exclusive institutions in France dedicated to providing training in couture at an unparalleled level of excellence. Acknowledged by industry insiders, these schools have been refining their techniques since 1830. On a momentous occasion at the Valentino fashion show, artistic director Pierpaolo Piccioli paid tribute to the skilled artisans of his workshops by orchestrating their runway debut. This groundbreaking event took place in an opulent setting at Place Vendôme amidst thunderous applause and a standing ovation—a historic first for a fashion designer.

At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry once again presented his spectacular flagship creations, an ode to Hollywood and his native America with numerous cinematic references. The show opened with the Top Gun theme, a couture first. The hottest accessory of the season that has created a buzz across social media is making headlines. Following last season's lion-headed dress donned by Kylie Jenner, the latest trend is a giant robot baby adorned with thousands of Swarovski crystals and silver and green electronic chips, boldly worn on the hip by model Maggie Maurer. This avant-garde fashion statement pays homage to Ellen Ripley, the heroine of Alien, while also channeling the surrealistic fashion spirit of icon Elsa Schiaparelli. 2024 also marks the centenary of André Breton's Surrealist Manifesto, celebrated on Monday morning in the Petit Palais gallery by Daniel Roseberry's thirty stunning creations that collide different looks and eras. Military ceremonial garments, face-dramatizing dresses, and black outfits with peculiar shapes, including a shiny black vinyl jacket with puffed sleeves worn over cowboy-inspired pants adorned with rows of silver buckles or even a puffy dress in pink satin adorned with an asymmetrical black jersey band.

At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri ventured into using moiré, also known as wet silk, renowned for its undulating appearance and historical association with sovereignty. The inspiration and starting point for the Dior Haute Couture 2024 collection were drawn from the iconic Cigale dress from the Profilée line created by Christian Dior in the fall of 1952. Now a permanent part of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this dress is described on the museum's website by Harper's Bazaar as being constructed in "moire gray, so heavy that the fabric resembles supple metal." The designer undertook the challenge of adapting the unique material and drape to suit contemporary clientele. As a result, the backline of the Cigale dress has been reimagined, now sculpted into a ruby red strapless gown, transforming the less pliable fabric into a sensual drape around the neckline inspired by a trench coat. During the runway show, in the front row, attention was drawn to the team from "The New Look," the upcoming ten-episode series on Apple TV+ set to premiere on February 14. The series promises to shed new light on haute couture and its era. Additionally, a notable piece in the collection was a stunning bodice in golden moire, embroidered with 1000 ribbon-tinted flowers, antique silks, and jewels.

Armani's runway showered with colors as the designer, approaching his 90th birthday, unveiled 92 delicately feminine and sparkling silhouettes. The collection combined transparency, lace, patterns, and crystals. Armani, a favorite among Hollywood stars and stylists during the Oscars season, adorned most fabrics with tiny crystals—long ball gowns, lace tops, cardigan jackets, petroleum silk billowing pants, and fan-shaped clutches. The collection was described as an "opening to different cultures," reflecting a "completely imagined journey from West to East." The Armani woman is described as someone who "takes something from every place she visits and makes it her own."

Alaia, under Peter Mulier's direction, hosted three intimate runway shows in its Marignan Street boutique, focusing on simplicity and clean cuts. The collection featured black and white outfits of varying lengths, with an animal-print coat over a black bodysuit, echoing the emerging trend of #mobwifeaesthetics circulating on social media. The Mob Wife Fashion allure embodies the fatal and glamorous style of a gangster's woman.

Chanel, led by Virginie Viard, opted for a delicate color palette this season. The collection showcased white bodysuits, rose tweed wrap jackets paired with black chiffon skirt panels, and sheer black babydoll dresses over subtly veiled pants. A play on total transparency is evident throughout, featuring thick white tights paired with open-toe black sandals with a small heel across all the looks. The collection stands out for its enchanting evening gowns adorned with airy feather details.

Beyond the runway shows, fashion houses recognized the allure of couture week and took the opportunity to present their creations. Roger Vivier, with designer Gerardo Felloni, showcased couture handbags, each requiring 30 to 60 hours of artisanal work. These sumptuous one-of-a-kind pieces ranged in price from 25,000 to 95,000 euros.

Another highlight was the exhibition "Sculpting the Senses" by Iris Van Herpen, presented at the Museum of Decorative Arts until April 28, 2024. The creator unveiled a true definition of haute couture, featuring a carefully curated dialogue of about a hundred couture pieces, providing a perfectly staged artistic experience.