Cyrille Vigneron: “Clients Demand Recognition of Cartier’s Style in Its Abundance and Renewal”

At the Kursalon Hübner, located in Vienna’s historic center, the contemporary decor—blending natural materials with Italian Renaissance architecture—featured the panther prominently. This symbol of Cartier, made famous by the legendary designer Jeanne Toussaint in the interwar period, was the star of the Nature Sauvage collection, which mesmerized clients who travelled from around the world to admire it. With pieces like the Panthère des Glaces diamond necklace totaling nearly 25 carats, a shoulder brooch featuring a 41-carat Ceylon sapphire, and a ring-bracelet enhanced with an 8.5-carat Zambian emerald, the panther and its accompanying menagerie embodied Cartier’s pure style. With 50,000 hours invested in these creations, Cartier aims to highlight its unique craftsmanship in a highly competitive jewelry market. Through Nature Sauvage, the renowned jeweler is delivering a powerful message.

How was the Nature Sauvage collection conceived?

Nature Sauvage was conceived during the pandemic. We needed to step away from the stressful context and envision pieces that were both unique and diverse, yet all expressing Cartier’s style. They are exclusive, yet have an inclusive quality in their ability to evoke emotion, despite the uncertainty of the world at the time of their reveal. Nature Sauvage explores the quest for our own nature, going beyond mere animal themes. The pandemic prompted us to reflect on our desires and feelings. Vienna, chosen for its presentation, offers a parallel. Its Art Nouveau architecture represents a period when the city emerged from a rigid, puritanical era, revealing nature expressed everywhere. Klimt celebrated a sensual, almost animalistic view of women. The panther, as envisioned by Jeanne Toussaint (editor’s note: Cartier’s design director for 37 years), symbolizes a reconnection with our deep, primal nature. This collection encourages us to rediscover and express this inherent part of ourselves, as it connects us to the world.

How might this collection resonate with audiences?

I believe this collection will resonate deeply with audiences because it challenges us to confront our inner, often suppressed, selves. It also offers a graphic and abstract representation of nature. Imagination is boundless; we can dream of creatures that may exist in millennia. The collection prompts us to view ourselves as part of the world, rather than separate from it. The term “wild” here refers more to primal nature than to danger or brutality. It is an introspective collection that speaks to everyone.

What can high jewelry convey that other art forms cannot?

While horology is about the myth of controlling time and gaining autonomy through it—a constant human dream—jewelry has a more symbolic relationship with the world, the universe, and both finite and infinite time, much longer than human time. Precious stones existed long before us and will continue to exist after us. Jewelry is worn on delicate parts of the body—on the neck, near the heart, on the wrists—offering protection and symbolizing power, historically worn by monarchs and clerics. On the other hand, the discourse around horology, focused on form and design that transcends time, is somewhat closer.

Why choose to feature unset gemstones?

This choice highlights two symbolic aspects. Firstly, the natural aspect of the stone, which has formed over millions of years, and can be appreciated for its beauty and energy. Secondly, it symbolizes the spark of beauty within each of us that we need to uncover.

High jewelry is increasingly exhibited in museums. What is Cartier’s approach on this theme?

To truly understand high jewelry, it needs to be experienced. This is best achieved when one can view a collection of pieces curated by an artist, curator, or architect. This approach makes high jewelry both inclusive and exclusive. While everyone can appreciate the beauty of high jewelry, even without the intention of purchasing it, understanding the connections between contemporary collections and their aesthetic or historical inspirations is crucial. Cartier’s exhibitions include “Cartier and the Arts of Islam” in Paris and Abu Dhabi, “Crystallization of Time” in Seoul, a forthcoming exhibition at the Shanghai Museum curated by a prominent contemporary artist, and a future show at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, which I cannot yet disclose.

What are today’s client expectations in high jewelry?

With the growing number of market players, not all from the jewelry sector, clients seek a distinct and recognizable Cartier style. Nature Sauvage is intrinsically Cartier, meeting this demand for style recognition in its abundance and renewal across each unique piece. Cartier must offer creations that are uniquely its own. Additionally, versatility is key. A necklace should be able to function as a brooch or have other elements for different styles, whether simple or opulent, ensuring a perfect expression of oneself. This requires ever more refined technical expertise, with expectations for fluidity, finesse, and comfort, even in very expensive pieces.

Should a piece be both stately and playful today?

This desire is not new but increasingly prevalent. It reflects a way to reappropriate jewelry and engage with oneself. High jewelry allows individuals to present themselves in a unique way, transforming the wearer by imbuing them with energy and radiance. The piece interacts with the wearer, like the panther bracelet-ring, which feels like it springs from within us. Each person embodies this panther, serving as a messenger between worlds, offering strength.