Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen: “A Significant Evolution Has Taken Shape Over the Past Five Years”

More than 150 years ago, IWC’s story began with the vision of a young American engineer, Florentine Ariosto Jones, who saw Switzerland and the banks of the Rhine as a watchmaking paradise. Today, the brand faces new challenges: aligning its historical reputation for precision instruments with a style that is less traditionally masculine.

In an interview ahead of the international fair Watches and Wonders Geneva, Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC since 2017, explains: “Our brand was founded on expertise in precision instruments for timekeeping, which we then integrated into oversized wristwatches, some as large as 46mm in diameter. Today, customers express a preference for smaller, thinner watches. We are also seeing increasing interest from female clientele, whereas IWC has historically communicated in a predominantly masculine way. Over the past five years, a significant evolution has taken shape. The launch of the new Top Gun collection in 2022 is a clear example. While still inspired by its military heritage, it features a more refined design that appeals to a broader audience. This shift is now evident across all our collections: Pilot, Ingenieur, Portugieser, Aquatimer, and Portofino. The new Ingenieur, introduced this year with a 35mm diameter, aligns perfectly with this transformation. Our challenge was twofold: to reach a wider audience without resorting to overtly feminine design cues, and to meticulously redesign every element of the Ingenieur in a smaller format without compromising its perfect proportions.”

This shift toward a more classic aesthetic is part of a broader strategy to expand IWC’s appeal without compromising its identity. This evolution has also led Grainger-Herr to strengthen the brand’s department dedicated to watch complications. In 2024, IWC introduced an entirely new Perpetual Calendar movement, fully adjustable via the crown, which was integrated into the elegant Portugieser line.

He explains: “The movement’s construction was completely rethought, driven by the growth of our complications department, which expanded from just a few specialists to a team of more than twenty. Many of these watchmakers came through our apprenticeship program. The Day & Night Tourbillon, developed in 2024, actually originated as an idea from one of these young watchmakers. It’s a remarkable dynamic, just as crucial as the commercial aspect. These new additions enhance IWC’s credibility. Now, we offer high-end watches that are not only exceptional timepieces but also incredibly user-friendly.”
Grainger-Herr notes a clear shift in watch trends following the pandemic. Passionate about design, shapes, and broader architectural influences, he enjoys comparing stylistic codes to societal shifts: “After COVID, the trend leaned towards celebration, bold sports watches, and striking colors influenced by pop culture. Today, we see a rebalancing of demand between sports watches and more classic timepieces like the Portugieser. This is why I believe this collection has arrived at the perfect moment. In 2025, we are offering a combination of sporty models like the Pilot line, which ties into the upcoming F1 film, alongside exceptional timepieces in the Ingenieur collection.”

The Ingenieur line best embodies IWC’s DNA and its evolution. Originally created in the 1950s by Albert Pellaton, then IWC’s Technical Director, the Ingenieur was a round, anti-magnetic automatic watch designed for professionals working in high-magnetic environments, such as engineers, chemists, pilots, and doctors. In 1972, IWC enlisted legendary designer Gérald Genta, who created some of the most iconic watches of the 20th century.

However, the Ingenieur did not achieve the same level of acclaim as Genta’s designs for competing brands. Grainger-Herr explains: “Not only was the Ingenieur the only round watch designed by Genta, but it wasn’t created with a luxury lifestyle in mind. It was designed for engineers, which likely explains why it didn’t resonate with the clientele it should have reached at the time. Only 598 pieces were produced, and it was later discontinued. It spent 50 years in the archives. When we reintroduced it in 2023, the challenge was to revive it overnight and communicate its heritage in a single message. Our goal was to immediately translate its legacy into a modern sports watch. Yet, today’s Ingenieur buyers aren’t drawn to it as a status symbol or a display of wealth. They appreciate it for its sophistication, understatement, and comfort. This collection is chosen based on personal affinity rather than external perception.”

However, some enthusiasts have voiced concerns over the watch’s pricing, arguing that it sits above the average market range. This point, which is also meant to demonstrate strategic coherence in line with the brand's expansion to a broader audience, is not shared by Chris Grainger-Herr. “I respect these comments, but online feedback does not necessarily reflect the perspective of actual customers. The Ingenieur is a masterpiece of ergonomics and comfort, especially in the new ceramic iteration. We completely reengineered the manufacturing process for a ceramic case. Each Ingenieur model, whether in ceramic, perpetual calendar, gold, or the new smaller size, is crafted through a highly elaborate and distinctive development process.”

Due to be released in June, the F1 film is set to be a major promotional vehicle for IWC. Lewis Hamilton, IWC’s ambassador for a decade, is among the film’s producers alongside Brad Pitt and Jerry Bruckheimer. IWC is featured as a sponsor of the fictional APXGP team in the film, mirroring its long-standing real-world partnership with Mercedes-AMG Petronas.

“For IWC, the F1 film represents a strategy similar to that of the Ingenieur. Why? Because it stems from our deep-rooted heritage and legitimacy in the automotive world. We are the longest-standing watch brand partner of a Formula 1 team, a relationship spanning 20 years. This longevity is mirrored by our ties with figures like Toto Wolff (CEO and Team Principal of Mercedes) and Lewis Hamilton, who was our ambassador for 10 years. Even composer Hans Zimmer, who worked on the film’s score, shares a long-standing connection with us. It’s an exceptional dream team. The film blurs the lines between reality and fiction, giving it a unique appeal. Our sponsorship is, of course, a tremendous promotional opportunity, but our ability to tell compelling stories goes far beyond simply placing a logo on a car.”
At Watches and Wonders, IWC’s priority for 2025 is ensuring that its messaging aligns with both its heritage and its products. Grainger-Herr concludes: “Today, we are overwhelmed with advertising messages. It is crucial that the depth of our storytelling is felt and understood by everyone. It must now resonate on a broader scale.