Blame and shame in luxury consumption

She sits at the table, shoulders slumped, fiddling with her new designer bag. Her ears turn redder by the second. She avoids eye contact while stammering about quality and reasonable price. The guilt after buying a luxury item and the looming threat of social criticism are like whispers—faint but lingering. Recent developments among China’s luxury consumers, however, have turned these ever-present whispers into louder discussions around luxury shaming.

Historically, luxury has reflected social status. Among the privileged were kings, aristocrats, and priests. Luxury was synonymous with power and an instrument to create social distance. As outdated as it may sound, limited accessibility is integral to a high-end brand’s strategy. These days, in contrast, we face the democratization of luxury and shifting consumer preferences. Brands are offering budget-friendly options, and the second-hand market is flourishing, while consumers favor discreet items over flashy ones and invest in well-being instead of shoes.

Old prejudices, however, persist. Luxury consumption is still associated with negative traits such as wastefulness, irrationality, and immorality. The main issue is that luxury makes economic inequality visible. Individuals who display luxury goods might be considered successful but are perceived as lacking warmth and relatability (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2021; Cannon & Rucker, 2019). Yet, according to Keinan, Kivetz, and Netzer (2016), adding a practical reason for buying luxury helps us justify our decision. This phenomenon can be well observed on social media. Some years ago, influencers coined the term “cost-per-wear” to demonstrate the longevity of luxury items, serving as a functional alibi. By explaining “how much wear we get out of our it-piece,” we hope to avoid rejection.

What about those who are passionate about luxury for reasons beyond social status? Those who purchase luxury pieces for the brand's artistry, reflecting the creativity and courage of its founder, its history spanning generations, or its quality, blending carefully selected materials with craftsmanship. Interestingly, expressing passion for luxury increases perceived authenticity and reduces feelings of guilt (Jung, Chen, & Yap, 2023; Kivetz & Simonson, 2002). Their choices testify to the intrinsic motivations behind luxury goods consumption, offering a way to move beyond prejudices.

Appreciating luxury for its traditional values might not silence the whispers, but it can alleviate them. If luxury consumers turn from ambassadors to curators, fostering a self-confident yet refined approach to spending while embracing the whispers instead of fighting them, could we mitigate blame and shame?